Beyond Beauty: Demystifying Sunscreen, Skincare, and Science with Dr. Julian Sass

In this episode, Jennifer Cookson, a seasoned R&D professional in the cosmetic industry,
interviews Dr. Julian Sass, an expert in cosmetic research and development. Dr. Sass shares
his unconventional journey into the cosmetics field, the importance of consumer education, and
the challenges of formulating products for a diverse population. The discussion also covers the
significance of diversity in clinical trials and in vitro testing, and how the industry can attract
more diverse talent to create formulations that cater to a broader range of consumers.

Key Takeaways:
• Diverse Backgrounds in Cosmetics: Dr. Sass's entry into the cosmetics industry highlights
how diverse academic backgrounds can contribute to innovative approaches in product
formulation.
• Importance of Consumer Education: Educating brands on their consumer's needs and
routines is crucial in creating effective cosmetic formulations.
• Challenges in Formulating for Diversity: Understanding the specific needs of diverse
consumer groups, particularly in hair and skin care, is vital for product success.
• Clinical Trials and Diversity: Including a diverse range of participants in clinical trials can
provide more accurate data and help brands create products that work well across
different demographics.
• Attracting Diverse Talent: The industry needs to engage with educational institutions that
serve diverse communities to attract new talent and perspectives.

Timestamps:
• 00:00 - Start
• 00:39 - Guest Introduction: Dr. Julian Sass's background and expertise in cosmetic research.
• 01:27 - Dr. Sass's Journey: Transitioning from mathematics to cosmetics and his experience
in R&D.
• 07:14 - Formulating for Diversity: The importance of understanding consumer routines and
needs.
• 11:24 - Consumer Research and Product Testing: How to test products effectively with diverse
groups.
• 14:43 - Clinical Trials: The challenges of conducting diverse and inclusive clinical studies.
• 19:38 - In Vitro Testing: Addressing gaps in evaluating products for different hair types.
• 23:28 - Formulating Without Bias: Strategies for cosmetic chemists to avoid implicit bias in
product development.
• 30:24 - The Importance of Diverse Teams: How having a diverse team impacts formulation
and testing.
• 37:58 - Attracting Diversity to the Industry: Encouraging diverse talent to join the cosmetic
industry.
• 41:51 - Conclusion: Where to find Dr. Julian Sass online and final thoughts.
• This episode provides valuable insights into the need for diversity in cosmetic
formulations and the impact of inclusive research and development practices.