In this episode, host Jennifer Cookson speaks with Valerie George, a seasoned cosmetic chemist, who shares her expertise in the world of haircare and hair dyes. Valerie takes us through her journey from studying biochemistry to becoming an expert in hair dye chemistry. Together, they explore the science behind different types of hair dyes, the challenges involved in formulating effective products, and why the outcomes of hair coloring can vary so much. From discussing the chemistry of permanent and semi-permanent dyes to addressing gray hair and analyzing hair color trends, this episode offers listeners an in-depth look at the complexities of hair color. Valerie also touches on ingredient safety, regulatory standards, and consumer-driven trends in the beauty industry.
Key Takeaways
• Types of Hair Dyes: Valerie explains the four main categories: permanent, demi-permanent, semi-permanent, and temporary, including how they differ in longevity and their impact on the hair fiber.
• The Chemistry Behind Hair Color: A deep dive into how hair color works, from breaking down melanin to depositing new color molecules.
• Gray Hair Challenges: Why gray hair is harder to dye and what makes coverage more difficult.
• Hair Color Safety: Insights on how hair dyes are regulated and tested for safety, and why new hair dye innovations are rare due to high regulatory standards.
• Consumer Trends: Valerie discusses how consumer demand for ammonia-free hair color is shaping the market, and why ammonia may actually be a better option for hair health.
Timestamps
00:00 – Start
00:26 – Valerie’s background and career path into cosmetic chemistry
01:47 – The science of hair dyes and Valerie’s transition to hair color chemistry
03:42 – Moving to LA and discovering a passion for haircare
05:08 – Why hair color chemistry provides instant results
07:03 – Basics of hair dye: permanent, semi-permanent, and temporary colors
09:25 – How hair dye chemically alters natural hair color
10:52 – The complexity of bleaching hair and multi-step color changes
12:43 – Categories of hair dye colorants and their chemical processes
17:00 – Formulating hair dye: trial and error in color creation
18:51 – Hair structure and how it impacts hair color results
19:47 – Variability in dye outcomes due to different hair types
23:03 – Why gray hair is harder to dye and the challenges of gray coverage
26:42 – Shiny hair after dyeing: Illusion or reality?
31:39 – Products that claim to prolong hair color: do they work?
33:57 – Hair dye safety and regulatory considerations
47:16 – Consumer preferences and trends in hair dye
50:59 – Valerie’s Instagram and podcast, The Beauty Brains
52:25 – What the industry wants to learn next
Guest Name: Valerie George
Webpage: linktr.ee/cosmetic_chemist
Episode: Unveiling Haircare Chemistry: Valerie George's Journey into Hair Dyes and Innovations
Social Handles: https://www.instagram.com/cosmetic_chemist
The Beauty Brains Podcast: Available on platforms like Spotify and iTunes. Just search for The Beauty Brains Podcast.